Sukhothai is a small provincial capital located 427 km north of Bangkok in Thailand, its name means 'the dawn of happiness'.
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Description
Province of Sukhothai
Sukhothai is divided into two distinct parts: the new town located on the banks of the Yom River and the old town 12 km further east, where you can discover the Sukhothai Historical Park.
The modern town nicknamed « New Sukhothai » is a popular tourist destination, a quiet town with many guesthouses, restaurants, and taxis ready to take you to the historical park.
Sukhothai, historical park
History of the Kingdom of Sukhothai
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There was the kingdom of Ngoen Yang (predecessor of Lanna around Chiang Saen, in the current Province of Chiang Rai) and the Lü kingdom of Heokam (around Chiang Hung, the current Jinghong in Yunnan).
The city was a commercial center of the kingdom of Lavo, the vassal of the Khmer Empire whose capital was the current Lopburi.
The migrations of the Thai populations in the upper Chao Phraya valley were still ongoing.
According to modern historians, the secession of Sukhothai from the Khmer Empire began in 1180, under the reign of Po Khun Sri Naw Namthom, sovereign of Sukhothai and the neighboring city of Sri Satchanalai (current Amphoe Si Satchanalai, in the province of Sukhothai).
Sukhothai enjoyed a wide autonomy at that time, but it was taken back around 1180 by the Mons of Lavo under their king Khomsabad Khlonlampong.
Two brothers, Po Khun Bangklanghao and Po Khun Phameung (Po Khun was a noble title) wrested Sukhothai from the Mons in 1239.
Bangklanghao ruled the region under the name of Sri Indrathit and was the first sovereign of the Phra Ruang dynasty.
He expanded his kingdom to neighboring cities. At the end of his reign in 1327, the kingdom of Sukhothai covered the entire upper Chao Phraya valley.
Traditional Thai historians consider the founding of the Sukhothai kingdom as the beginning of their nation, as little is known about the previous kingdoms, although modern historical studies have shown that Thai history begins before.
Expansion of Sukhothai under Ramkamhaeng
Statue of King Ramkhamhaeng
Po Khun Banmeaung and his brother Ramkhamhaeng (r. 1239-1317) expanded the kingdom at the expense of neighboring civilizations.
For the first time, a Thai state became a dominant power in Southeast Asia.
The historical tradition describes the expansion of Sukhothai with many details, but the accuracy of these is debated.
In the south, Ramkamhaeng subjugated the kingdom of Supannabhum and Sri Thamnakorn (Tambralinga, in the Malay Peninsula) and, through it, adopted Theravada Buddhism as the state religion.
In the north, Ramkamhaeng made Phrae and Mueng Sua (Luang Prabang) pay tribute.
In the west, Ramkamhaeng came to the aid of Wareru (believed to have kidnapped his sister) during the fall of the Pagan kingdom, to found a Mon kingdom in Martaban (the Hanthawaddy kingdom, later centered on Pegu).
For this reason, Thai historians consider that this kingdom was a vassal of Sukhothai. In fact, this domination was probably purely formal.
Ramkhamhaeng asked the monks of Sri Thamnakorn to spread Theravada Buddhism to Sukhothai.
In 1283, he invented the Thai alphabet, represented on the famous "Ramkamhaeng Stele" discovered by King Mongkut (Rama IV) 600 years later.
This stele represents a capital testimony on the country's history.
Sukhothai, historic park inscription of Ramkhamhaeng
The government of Ramkhamhaeng is characteristic of that of the Sukhothai kingdom, a patrocratic monarchical type, where the king is considered as the father and the subjects as his children.
Ramkhamhaeng encouraged trade by declaring:
“Whoever wants to sell elephants, let him do so. Whoever wants to sell horses, let him do so.”
It is also from this period that date back the first relations with the new Yuan dynasty and that the kingdom began to send commercial missions to China.
Sukhothai exported Sangkalok (literally, pottery of the Song dynasty!).
It was the only period when Siam produced ceramics in the Chinese style.
Decline of Sukhothai and domination of Ayutthaya
The power of the city was short-lived.
After the death of Ramkhamhaeng, the vassal kingdoms emancipated under the reign of his son Phaya Loethai (1298-1323).
First, it was the province of Uttaradit in the north, then the Laotian kingdoms of Luang Prabang and Vientiane.
En 1319, les Môns rompirent leur allégeance dans l’ouest et en 1321 le Lanna (fondé en 1259) s’empara de Tak, une des plus anciennes villes contrôlées par Sukhothaï.
In the south, the powerful city of Suphanburi also gained its independence under the reign of Loethai.
Thus the kingdom was quickly reduced to its former local power.
In 1378 its armies invaded the city and King Thammaracha II was forced to become its vassal.
In 1424, after the death of Sailuethai, the two brothers Paya Ram and Paya Banmeung clashed for the throne.
The king of Ayutthaya, Nagarindrathirat, intervened by dividing the kingdom between them.
Their sister married Borommaracha II of Ayutthaya and had a son, Prince Ramesuan.
Boromban having died without an heir in 1446, Ramesuan became king under the name of Trailokanat (or Boromtrailokanat).
He was also crowned king of Ayutthaya in 1448, marking the end of the Sukhothai kingdom.
The Silajaruek-Sukhothai is a collection of hundreds of stone inscriptions forming a chronicle of this period.
The most important are the Ramkhamhaeng stele (Silajaruek Pho Khun Ramkhamhaeng), the Silajaruek Wat Srichum (an account of the history of the region and Sri Lanka) and the Silajaruek Wat Pamamuang (a politico-religious account of the reign of King Loethai).
The immense city is now in ruins. The wooden palace of its kings has disappeared.
However, the city still has many remains of temples, built in laterite and brick.
Most of the buildings that have been discovered, and partly restored, are located inside a rampart reinforced with moats.
But many other buildings, scattered in the surrounding rice fields, await being cleared of the layer of earth that covers them.
Things to see and do in Sukhothai
The historical park
Sukhothai Temple
You should plan at least 3 hours to visit the site.
You can rent bicycles (around 20 bahts).
The Park brings together the historical remains of 193 sites over an area of 70 km².
A restoration program, started in 1960, made it possible to restore or rebuild almost all the monuments.
The park is divided into 5 zones (center, north, south, east, west).
The center, north and west zones are payable (100 THB) because they host the main sites.
A combined ticket with the remains of Si Sachanalaï is possible
Map of Sukhothai
The Ram Khamhaeng National Museum
This museum, which allows tracing the evolution of Sukhothai's art, is located inside the historic park.
This national museum houses many archaeological remains and ancient artifacts found among the ruins of Sukhothai city.
Useful information about the historical park
Song-teo (pick-up-taxis) operate a shuttle service from the city center.
Attention, there are no more services after 5:30 PM!
The site of the ruins of the old town of Sukhothai
Sri Satchanalai
Ruins of Sri Satchanalai
Built on the banks of the Yom, about sixty kilometers north of Sukhothai, Sri Satchanalai was the main satellite town of the kingdom.
It was a center of potters and excavations have uncovered underground kilns. In the suburbs of the city, the famous Sawankhalok ceramics were produced, named after the region during the early period of the Ayutthaya kings.
Abandoned at the end of the 18th century, many of its monuments have been excavated and restored as part of the programs directed by Khun Nikom.
Practical information
The best time of the year to visit the region is from November to February, when the weather is cooler. Visitors can enjoy various activities, the best time to visit the region is from November to February, when the weather is cooler.
Loy Kratong (the Festival of Lights)
Find a hotel in Sukhothai
You will have no trouble finding hotel rooms, but if you come between November and February, the high season in Thailand, it is better to book in advance.
How to get to Sukhothai
By car
From Bangkok, take Highway N1, then Highway N32 north towards Nakhon Sawan.
The N32 Highway becomes the N1 Highway, continue until Kamphaeng Phet, then take Highway 101 towards Sukhothai.
By bus
Air-conditioned buses depart from Bangkok's North Bus Terminal (Mo Chit 2) for Sukhothai (7-hour journey).
By train
The nearest railway station is located in Phitsanulok, from where a regular bus service goes to Sukhothai, 50 km away.
Trains depart from Krung Thep Aphiwat Railway Station (Bang Sue) in Bangkok.
By plane
Bangkok Airways operates daily flights from Bangkok to Sukhothai (approx. 1-hour journey).
The airport is located 40 km north of the city.
See also:
Transport in Thailand, getting around the Land of Smiles
Photos of Sukhothai
Video about Sukhothai
Maps of the city and province of Sukhothai
City Map
Map of Sukhothai City
Province Map
Map of Sukhothai Province
Source: wikipedia.org ; wikitravel.org ; Photo: Statue of King Ramkhamhaeng Shoestring ; Wat Mahathat: Olivier Spalt ; Lake: Caspar ; Sri Satchanalai: John Shedrick
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2 comments
I had the chance to visit the city of Sukhothai a few years ago and it's really magnificent. I recommend visiting it in this superb country
Yes, Sukhothai is a beautiful city that has managed to maintain its authenticity despite the historical site and the many tourists, a much more pleasant city than its neighbor, Phitsanulok.