Vegetarianism in Thailand

Already a long-time vegetarian when I went to live in Thailand a few years ago, I wondered before arriving how I was going to be able to satisfy my dietary requirements in the land of smiles.

I must say from the outset that I was quickly reassured.

I would like to share my experience with those who are interested in this article, and it is said that, given the current situation, there are more and more of them.

A vegetarian in Bangkok

Unfamiliar with the customs and traditions and unable to speak a single word of Thai upon my arrival, I found myself, like everyone else, on the famous Khao San Street in the Banglamphu district during my first days in the capital.

An entrance hall and almost obligatory passage for all new travelers arriving in Bangkok , this legendary district is primarily intended to welcome foreigners from all over the world.

So I had no trouble finding something to eat in this most cosmopolitan place where practically all the cultures of the world rub shoulders.

Every shop, restaurant or inn offers vegetarian dishes to satisfy their precious, diverse clientele.

I also found this offer in all the tourist spots I visited throughout the country.

The “vegetarian food” of Chiang Mai

In Chiang Mai , in the north of the country, there is an entire district where there are a concentration of cheap hotels and guest houses which seems to have specialized in this ethical choice of food.

In this area, almost every restaurant proudly displays "Vegetarian food" and offers no other alternative.

I even remember one notable exception, this restaurant which had written in giant letters on its front, no doubt to stand out and attract the reluctant:

“Here, NOT vegetarian food.” That’s an understatement…

Phuket and its vegetarian festival

But it was when I arrived in the south of the country, in Phuket – where I had committed to working voluntarily on the gibbon rehabilitation project in which I worked for three years (see: Refuse to have your picture taken with a baby gibbon in your arms ) – that I had my real encounter with Thai vegetarian culture .

In Phuket, more than anywhere else, the vegetarian tradition is deeply rooted in daily life.

The island is, in fact, renowned for its incredible and impressive vegetarian festival, which has been held for nine days a year for over 180 years and is worth the trip alone. Not for the faint-hearted!

Phuket Vegetarian Festival

Self-harm at a Phuket Vegetarian Festival before the pandemic.

Vegetarian Festival

The different types of vegetarianism in Thailand

At this point, a little semantics and vocabulary are in order.

The word "mangsawirat" (มังสวิรัติ), which is not widely used by Thais themselves, refers to vegetarianism in the broad sense as it is understood in the West.

It is mainly used to satisfy foreign customers who follow an ovo lacto vegetarian (*) .

This is the food that can be found almost everywhere in the tourist areas already mentioned.

The word "Djè" ( เจ ) is much stricter and much more widespread since it is found in practically the entire country.

It refers to an exclusively vegan (**)   which is only served in restaurants ( ran.a/han djè – ร้านอาหารเจ ) – often very cheap – exclusively dedicated to the cause which is intended to be more religious than anything else as we will see later.

These very special restaurants are mostly located near Chinese Taoist temples. They are rarely mentioned in English and almost never appear in guidebooks.

I therefore strongly advise vegans (***) wishing to travel to Thailand to learn to recognize this word before leaving.

It looks like a large 17 almost always written in red on a yellow background.

It also serves as a label and is found on all food packaging that meets the criteria of Thai-style vegetarianism.

You will also find it in Asian grocery stores located throughout major Western cities.

Although usually translated as "vegetarian" , the word "djè" means much more than that.

The translations "vegan" or "vegan" would not satisfy this either.

In fact, "djè" implies not only a strictly vegan diet, but also a formal ban on all consumption of alcohol, cigarettes, food additives – including the famous mono sodium glutamate (MSG, pong shu rot in Thai) which is as widespread as it is controversial – as well as that of sex for non-procreative purposes...

He also bans, for reasons that have, I admit, always escaped me, garlic and onion!

Another notable difference I would like to mention between the vegan lifestyle as it is understood in the West and the "djè" in Thailand relates mainly to their respective purposes.

While in the case of the first, the motivation is mainly ecological or political or even anti-speciesist, the Thais who indulge in this mode of consumption do so mainly for religious reasons.

Eating vegetarian (kin djè) allows above all to acquire merit (tham boon) in order, as much as possible, to be forgiven for sins (tham bhaap) thus fostering the healthy hope of living a better life in the infinite cycle of reincarnation and reaching the ultimate goal of completing the cycle: nirvana.

While the vegan acts for reasons that could be described as earthly, the Thai vegetarian (khon djè) is motivated by purely celestial justifications.

Despite this notable difference and although, as far as I am concerned, I only stick to my vegan convictions, which in their eyes are disbelieving, I must say that I have always been very warmly welcomed in these restaurants that I have frequented daily for several years where the food is not only the cheapest and most delicious that I have ever eaten, but also, it seems, blessed by the gods...

พูดดี ทำดี คิดดี กินเจ (phout dii, tham dii, khit dii, kin djé – speak well, do well, think well, eat vegetarian ): their favorite slogan that sums it all up.

Quite a program…

Jean-Sébastien Henry

(*) Ovo lacto vegetarianism refers to a diet based on the consumption of plants, eggs, milk, and honey, as well as their derivatives. This diet is commonly referred to as "vegetarianism."

(**) Veganism refers to an exclusively plant-based diet. This diet prohibits the consumption of milk and eggs, as well as any other food of animal origin.

(***) Veganism (also called integral veganism) refers to a lifestyle that bans all products of animal origin, both for food and for any other form of consumption (clothing, furniture, cosmetics, etc.). A vegan does not wear leather, wool, or silk, and does not, for example, use any products previously tested on animals.

You will find on the forum the best vegetarian restaurants in Bangkok , shared by Quentin .

Photos from the Phuket Vegetarian Festival: Joseph Ferris III